Thursday, October 05, 2006

Naone Village, Maewo Island Vanuatu

Then we found paradise and it was all worthwhile! We anchored in a little bay about 6 km down the western side of Maewo. The bay had a double waterfall (side by side) and a magnificent creek entrance with 2 low and wide waterfalls coming into it. We navigated the dinghy to shore by the washing that was hanging near the creek and found we were in the little village of Naone. Paramount Chief Elliot and Steven rowed out in their dugouts to welcome us - we are the first yacht to call in this season (it started in June!) -and they have had no tourists this year to visit the waterfall. Beautiful village, beautiful people, an abundance of fruit trees, coconut palms, water gardens spreading up the hillside where they grow different types of water taro and kava. They divert the water from the waterfall and river - it flows through and then rejoins on the way down. Very ecological.

Steven (age 21) offered to show us the waterfall next day at 9 am. At 7.15 he was banging on the side of the boat to tell us he had already been to the vegie gardens and had some cabbages, drinking coconuts and peppers for us. He accepted an offer to come aboard for a cup of tea and was excited to look over the boat. But he became seasick down below and had to head for shore!

When we arrived onshore at 9 am there was Steven plus the paramount chief plus 10 other men plus an abundance of children all waiting to greet us. We gave the chief a baseball cap that said "I'm the boss". He thought it was hilarious and was still wearing it after dark.

The procession headed up past the water taro gardens (terraced up the hillside) towards the waterfall - all 20 of us. We were solemnly following Steven and an older, very confident and knowledgeable guy called Jerry. They led us along the path with a bunch of other men who all had some role to play in the village. Funny thing was, each time we arrived at another pathway crossing, there was the chief and co who had got there before us - sitting, smiling and waiting. We could here kids laughing and every now and then they would pop out of the bushes - they got there before us as well!

When we got to the base of the waterfalls it was spectacular. Some of the young men were ordered to climb them and jump off into the pools so we could take photos! We walked around the bottom to the smaller swimming hole, complete with a cave you could swim into, climb up a hole to the back of a small waterfall then climb back into the swimming hole again. David did this and we both swam while everyone stood and watched! Steven was coerced into joining us to make sure we did not get lost in the little cave.

Then to our utter amazement we were being led up the side of the waterfall and actually walked across the face of it to the other side. We stopped in the middle to look over the edge. I was totally bowled over by the experience and every time I looked back at David he was looking very anxiously at me - I think he was waiting for me to freak but I had lots of strong hands to help me along. The guys were all very attentive to the "old" lady.

We sat at the very top and admired the view - Jerry kept telling us the best photo spots.... Then back the same way (it was scarier going down the waterfall than up), back to the village and walked through it to the primary school. We had to stop on the way and meet Steven's father (quite elderly and frail) named Joe. He didn't say much but we shook hands and stood respectfully long enough (I think).

We passed the nakamel, where the men gather each night to drink kava, gather to discuss village problems and solutions, and where the chief meets complainants and issues fines or penalties for misdemeanors. They made it clear I could not go in but was able to stand outside and listen to the commentary. Then one of the guys asked the chief something in Bislama and the chief turned to me and said "You may go in - special permission". Now that is really something as this village is very traditional - what an honour.

Off to see the school, past the school teacher's cow - the only one in the village. We sat in a classroom and the village guys all sat at the tables and asked us lots of questions about Australia, Melbourne, how we had sailed there, what jobs we had, etc. etc. We gave the teacher exercise books, coloured pencils and pens. This school is for all the kids in the north of the island. Some come and live with local families during school term because it is too far and too difficult to travel daily.

We agreed to come back in at 5 o'clock, bring the computer and show them all the photos we had taken.

Come 5 o'clock, we were met by another of the teachers, a beautiful girl called Fannerly, who escorted us to the community hut. We set up the computer and next thing there were 80 men, women and children all there to watch the picture show. After we had seen the local pictures twice they asked to see the other pictures we had. So we showed them Mt Yasur (the active volcano in Tanna). There were lots of "oohs and aahs". Not satisfied, they wanted more so in the end they saw all the photos on our computer - it was like being in the movies or at a fireworks display - lots of exclamations. Then the battery ran out.....

We said our goodbyes and gave the village a set of guitar strings for their string band (bush base, guitars and ukuleles).

On our way back to the dinghy in the dark, accompanied by Stephen and the chief (who was carrying the yellow dingy rope we had given him which he had been coveting to use as a washing line for the women), we were met by some lads who whispered that we should stand and wait as something important was happening. Shortly after, two people came along the path carrying a special bamboo - they were sorcerers who had sensed the devil (hope it wasn't us!) and were making it safe by driving him/her out. We were not allowed to approach or speak with them. Wow! This part of Vanuatu is renowned for magic and sorcery.

Back at the dinghy someone had put in a hand of bananas and 2 more drinking coconuts. Back to Maajhi-Re where we poured a gin and tonic and voted it the best day so far.

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