Tanna- Vanuatu

Clearing into Tanna Island was recommended by yachties and is a must do. We arrived before dawn having tried to slow down during the night – stronger winds than we expected – and had to hover around waiting for light to break before tackling the entrance. Imagine our surprise to find 3 other yachts converging on Port Resolution at the same time!

Once settled we all introduced ourselves and had a ball for a week – sharing sundowners around the boats each night,

Tanna is completely different to our New Caledonia experience. We were literally guests of the 3 villages around the bay.

Tanna Highlights:
The “yacht club” on the point operated by the main village – Chief Ronnie is the proud commodore. The village prepared a feast and we paid a donation to assist one of the girls to go to secondary school.
The day long trip in the back of 3 pickup trucks, over the mountains, past the Mt Yasur volcano, to the small town of Lenakel to clear customs and immigration – in 3 different offices spread all over the town.
Mt Yasur volcano – active, smoking, belching out molten rock – standing on the edge of the crater as night fell and the eruptions became silhouetted against the black night sky.
David falling over the back of the dinghy into the bay one night after successfully untangling the prop from a fishing net – the laughter from our dinghy was so great that Robyn was powerless to assist him back in.
The third birthday party of the chief’s granddaughter in village number 3. Fabulous feast food and company, followed by a game of Aussie rules footie with the local boys.
A visit to village 2 – complete with a whole village welcome and demonstrations of fire walking, pandanus weaving, bow and arrow shooting and magic carrying leaves.

And to top it off, we caught a metre long Spanish mackeral (our first serious fish) on the overnight sail from Tanna to Port Vila, with the help of local Tanna lad Stephen (our guest on board) who wanted to get to Vila to visit his mum.

New Caledonia

What an introduction to cruising! Over 8 weeks we explored most of the sounthern and central east lagoon, as well as Lifou in the Loyalty Islands. Noumea was our base – very French, rather expensive, but fun and somewhat laid back compared to the city lifestyle we had left behind.. In the process we learnt much more about sailing the boat (and sailing her 2 handed), about the provisioning required for long term cruising and the daily procedures necessary to make life easy and safe. We also gradually let go of the pre-departure tension and learnt to relax, enjoy island time and realise that if something breaks there is always a fix – as long as you are not pressed for time.

Highlights?
Lagoon sailing under full sail on flat water; doing 8 knots upwind in only 10 knots of breeze. Even the dinghy skipped along without drag.
Being escorted by groups of dolphins as we worked our way through the navigation challenges of lagoon sailing and reef dodging.
Our first experience of working our way through reefs and into uncharted waters to visit Vao on the Isle des Pins.
The turtles at Baie Kuto
The fish and produce market on the waterfront at Noumea
Meeting many yachties from all over who had assembled in Noumea on the first leg of their 2006 cruising experience.
The whale breaching nearby as we headed across the ocean between southern lagoon entrances.
Anchoring overnight on the edge of the lagoon in a narrow channel between reefs and having the deserted island to ourselves.
The oysters at the top of Baie de Pronie – giant and succulent – pick them up in the shallows. (By the way, that photo is of the oysters!!!!)
The safe and calm bay anchorages overnight with often a resident dugong.

Coffs Harbour to Noumea

Our second off shore passge in Maajhi-Re was over 6 and a half days, leaving Coffs on May 13 and arriving on May 20th 2006.

We had to work the angles all the way across in an effort to keep from heading too far north and missing the lagoon entrance altogether. It was a bit of a slog but Maajhi-Re handled it beautifully (better than her sometimes sea sick owners.)

On board were Duncan and Eve Mackenzie who shared watches and the galley, along with a few running repairs that were required.

Weather was kind – wind strength rarely above 30 knots and then only briefly. Unfortunately we had lumpy and wet seas for most of the trip which made life rather uncomfortable for all.

Our two problems related to battens in the mainsail (we kept losing them !) and leaks in the forward area caused by the constant punding into seas coming across the bow and rushing up the deck.

Duncan and Eve had to shift into the bunks in the saloon as their bed was saturated. Then the mast boot started leaking in there as well. Oh well – plenty to do after arriving in New Caledonia……….