Northern Islands - Vanuatu

An experience not to be missed, never to be forgotten, and to be revisited as often as we can. In fact we are going back next year. There are so many bays and villages we did not have the chance to visit, and many others where we have formed friendships and made commitments to return in 2007.

Ni-Vanuatu in their villages are beautiful people. Many young people have tried the “city life” of Port Vila and have opted to return to their village, marry and raise a family, and generally strengthen their communities.

In the vast majority of villages, yachties are welcomed with open arms – many villages have built open air “yacht clubs” where yachties can gather. It provides an opportunity for the villagers to raise funds by having kava and island nights, providing meals on request, selling produce and occasionally even beer – if the island trader has come recently and if it is carrying beer. Must say the only beer we ever found was that provided by other yachties!

The highlights? Definitely Asanvari – the chief’s son Nixon is hospitable, talented, genuinely interested in meeting yachties and providing a great experience for the sailors. While there, some yachts headed around the west coast with Nixon, for an overnight cray-fishing experience. They brought back 20 or so which they shared with the village and the other yachties. We took a trip up the coast to the Mooncaves – meeting the resident villagers and hearing the stories of local interpretations of the ancient cave paintings and the meanings of the stalactites and stalagmites.

Naone Village, Maewo Island Vanuatu

Then we found paradise and it was all worthwhile! We anchored in a little bay about 6 km down the western side of Maewo. The bay had a double waterfall (side by side) and a magnificent creek entrance with 2 low and wide waterfalls coming into it. We navigated the dinghy to shore by the washing that was hanging near the creek and found we were in the little village of Naone. Paramount Chief Elliot and Steven rowed out in their dugouts to welcome us - we are the first yacht to call in this season (it started in June!) -and they have had no tourists this year to visit the waterfall. Beautiful village, beautiful people, an abundance of fruit trees, coconut palms, water gardens spreading up the hillside where they grow different types of water taro and kava. They divert the water from the waterfall and river - it flows through and then rejoins on the way down. Very ecological.

Steven (age 21) offered to show us the waterfall next day at 9 am. At 7.15 he was banging on the side of the boat to tell us he had already been to the vegie gardens and had some cabbages, drinking coconuts and peppers for us. He accepted an offer to come aboard for a cup of tea and was excited to look over the boat. But he became seasick down below and had to head for shore!

When we arrived onshore at 9 am there was Steven plus the paramount chief plus 10 other men plus an abundance of children all waiting to greet us. We gave the chief a baseball cap that said "I'm the boss". He thought it was hilarious and was still wearing it after dark.

The procession headed up past the water taro gardens (terraced up the hillside) towards the waterfall - all 20 of us. We were solemnly following Steven and an older, very confident and knowledgeable guy called Jerry. They led us along the path with a bunch of other men who all had some role to play in the village. Funny thing was, each time we arrived at another pathway crossing, there was the chief and co who had got there before us - sitting, smiling and waiting. We could here kids laughing and every now and then they would pop out of the bushes - they got there before us as well!

When we got to the base of the waterfalls it was spectacular. Some of the young men were ordered to climb them and jump off into the pools so we could take photos! We walked around the bottom to the smaller swimming hole, complete with a cave you could swim into, climb up a hole to the back of a small waterfall then climb back into the swimming hole again. David did this and we both swam while everyone stood and watched! Steven was coerced into joining us to make sure we did not get lost in the little cave.

Then to our utter amazement we were being led up the side of the waterfall and actually walked across the face of it to the other side. We stopped in the middle to look over the edge. I was totally bowled over by the experience and every time I looked back at David he was looking very anxiously at me - I think he was waiting for me to freak but I had lots of strong hands to help me along. The guys were all very attentive to the "old" lady.

We sat at the very top and admired the view - Jerry kept telling us the best photo spots.... Then back the same way (it was scarier going down the waterfall than up), back to the village and walked through it to the primary school. We had to stop on the way and meet Steven's father (quite elderly and frail) named Joe. He didn't say much but we shook hands and stood respectfully long enough (I think).

We passed the nakamel, where the men gather each night to drink kava, gather to discuss village problems and solutions, and where the chief meets complainants and issues fines or penalties for misdemeanors. They made it clear I could not go in but was able to stand outside and listen to the commentary. Then one of the guys asked the chief something in Bislama and the chief turned to me and said "You may go in - special permission". Now that is really something as this village is very traditional - what an honour.

Off to see the school, past the school teacher's cow - the only one in the village. We sat in a classroom and the village guys all sat at the tables and asked us lots of questions about Australia, Melbourne, how we had sailed there, what jobs we had, etc. etc. We gave the teacher exercise books, coloured pencils and pens. This school is for all the kids in the north of the island. Some come and live with local families during school term because it is too far and too difficult to travel daily.

We agreed to come back in at 5 o'clock, bring the computer and show them all the photos we had taken.

Come 5 o'clock, we were met by another of the teachers, a beautiful girl called Fannerly, who escorted us to the community hut. We set up the computer and next thing there were 80 men, women and children all there to watch the picture show. After we had seen the local pictures twice they asked to see the other pictures we had. So we showed them Mt Yasur (the active volcano in Tanna). There were lots of "oohs and aahs". Not satisfied, they wanted more so in the end they saw all the photos on our computer - it was like being in the movies or at a fireworks display - lots of exclamations. Then the battery ran out.....

We said our goodbyes and gave the village a set of guitar strings for their string band (bush base, guitars and ukuleles).

On our way back to the dinghy in the dark, accompanied by Stephen and the chief (who was carrying the yellow dingy rope we had given him which he had been coveting to use as a washing line for the women), we were met by some lads who whispered that we should stand and wait as something important was happening. Shortly after, two people came along the path carrying a special bamboo - they were sorcerers who had sensed the devil (hope it wasn't us!) and were making it safe by driving him/her out. We were not allowed to approach or speak with them. Wow! This part of Vanuatu is renowned for magic and sorcery.

Back at the dinghy someone had put in a hand of bananas and 2 more drinking coconuts. Back to Maajhi-Re where we poured a gin and tonic and voted it the best day so far.

Port Vila - Vanuatu

What a fun town. Go anywhere by bus for 100 vatu per person – first on first off unless of course your destination is along the way, in which case you ask the driver to stop and he does. 80% of vehicles on the road are vans of some sort with a “B” for bus on the number plate.

Great duty free shopping for wines and spirits, perfumes, diesel. Great shopping along the only strip for clothes, music, DVD’s.

A place well set-up for yachties, providing respite from the self sufficiency the lifestyle demands. Jill’s café has hamburgers and chips! Waterfront Bar and Grill and Yachting World are near the dinghy jetty for beer, music, camaraderie and laundry. Even a free shower at the Bar and Grill.

To stock up to travel to the northern islands Port Vila is ideal. The market is openb 24 hours - stall holders just sleep on the ground under their stalls. Beautiful organic fruits and vegies , flowers, lap lap lunches, much taro, kava roots provide a diverse and colorful display.

Vanuatu beef – export quality? Just walk up the hill to the boucherie and you can order it in a varierty of cuts, packaged and frozen for the long months up north. Also veal and chicken. If you want, they provide export packs with the necessary paperwork.

The handcraft market sells carvings, baskets, cloth, jewellery, bows and arrows, model canoes. Great fun on a cruise ship day to watch families buying souvenirs and the girls having their hair braided.

The French influence still abounds although English is commonly spoken – but the patisseries are very nice.

Tanna- Vanuatu

Clearing into Tanna Island was recommended by yachties and is a must do. We arrived before dawn having tried to slow down during the night – stronger winds than we expected – and had to hover around waiting for light to break before tackling the entrance. Imagine our surprise to find 3 other yachts converging on Port Resolution at the same time!

Once settled we all introduced ourselves and had a ball for a week – sharing sundowners around the boats each night,

Tanna is completely different to our New Caledonia experience. We were literally guests of the 3 villages around the bay.

Tanna Highlights:
The “yacht club” on the point operated by the main village – Chief Ronnie is the proud commodore. The village prepared a feast and we paid a donation to assist one of the girls to go to secondary school.
The day long trip in the back of 3 pickup trucks, over the mountains, past the Mt Yasur volcano, to the small town of Lenakel to clear customs and immigration – in 3 different offices spread all over the town.
Mt Yasur volcano – active, smoking, belching out molten rock – standing on the edge of the crater as night fell and the eruptions became silhouetted against the black night sky.
David falling over the back of the dinghy into the bay one night after successfully untangling the prop from a fishing net – the laughter from our dinghy was so great that Robyn was powerless to assist him back in.
The third birthday party of the chief’s granddaughter in village number 3. Fabulous feast food and company, followed by a game of Aussie rules footie with the local boys.
A visit to village 2 – complete with a whole village welcome and demonstrations of fire walking, pandanus weaving, bow and arrow shooting and magic carrying leaves.

And to top it off, we caught a metre long Spanish mackeral (our first serious fish) on the overnight sail from Tanna to Port Vila, with the help of local Tanna lad Stephen (our guest on board) who wanted to get to Vila to visit his mum.

New Caledonia

What an introduction to cruising! Over 8 weeks we explored most of the sounthern and central east lagoon, as well as Lifou in the Loyalty Islands. Noumea was our base – very French, rather expensive, but fun and somewhat laid back compared to the city lifestyle we had left behind.. In the process we learnt much more about sailing the boat (and sailing her 2 handed), about the provisioning required for long term cruising and the daily procedures necessary to make life easy and safe. We also gradually let go of the pre-departure tension and learnt to relax, enjoy island time and realise that if something breaks there is always a fix – as long as you are not pressed for time.

Highlights?
Lagoon sailing under full sail on flat water; doing 8 knots upwind in only 10 knots of breeze. Even the dinghy skipped along without drag.
Being escorted by groups of dolphins as we worked our way through the navigation challenges of lagoon sailing and reef dodging.
Our first experience of working our way through reefs and into uncharted waters to visit Vao on the Isle des Pins.
The turtles at Baie Kuto
The fish and produce market on the waterfront at Noumea
Meeting many yachties from all over who had assembled in Noumea on the first leg of their 2006 cruising experience.
The whale breaching nearby as we headed across the ocean between southern lagoon entrances.
Anchoring overnight on the edge of the lagoon in a narrow channel between reefs and having the deserted island to ourselves.
The oysters at the top of Baie de Pronie – giant and succulent – pick them up in the shallows. (By the way, that photo is of the oysters!!!!)
The safe and calm bay anchorages overnight with often a resident dugong.

Coffs Harbour to Noumea

Our second off shore passge in Maajhi-Re was over 6 and a half days, leaving Coffs on May 13 and arriving on May 20th 2006.

We had to work the angles all the way across in an effort to keep from heading too far north and missing the lagoon entrance altogether. It was a bit of a slog but Maajhi-Re handled it beautifully (better than her sometimes sea sick owners.)

On board were Duncan and Eve Mackenzie who shared watches and the galley, along with a few running repairs that were required.

Weather was kind – wind strength rarely above 30 knots and then only briefly. Unfortunately we had lumpy and wet seas for most of the trip which made life rather uncomfortable for all.

Our two problems related to battens in the mainsail (we kept losing them !) and leaks in the forward area caused by the constant punding into seas coming across the bow and rushing up the deck.

Duncan and Eve had to shift into the bunks in the saloon as their bed was saturated. Then the mast boot started leaking in there as well. Oh well – plenty to do after arriving in New Caledonia……….

Pittwater to Coffs Harbour

Pittwater to Coffs Harbour

After two nights at RPAYC in Pittwater to refuel and take on water, plus make Maajhi-Re shipshape after the 5 day passage from Melbourne, we motored back down Pittwater to Stokes Point and picked up Adam and Tuula Hudson for a day up the Hawkesbury. Beautiful weather for a day up in Refuge and America’s Bay. We picked up a mooring and had a most pleasant and relaxed lunch.

On return we took advantage of an empty mooring belonging to one of the Hudson’s neighbours and spent the next 4 days catching up on some maintenance and enjoying the shore at night after a long steep climb up the garden path to Adam and Tuula’s.

Pittwater is magnificent as we recall from spending a week there on a Halvorsen when Chris and Laura were 1 and 2 years old.

Friends from RBYC, Martin and Sue, were in the vicinity so we made contact and they dropped by the next morning to raft up and show us over their Perry 43 catamaran. They are sailing back to Melbourne and have taken 6 weeks to enjoy the experience. Both were impressed by David’s hot cross bun making that was in progress at the time. Chris and Erica had left a little package with the ingredients weighed out and instructions for making them – a delightful Easter present.

On Friday Chris arrived and we prepared to depart for the trip to Coffs Harbour. The weather looked good but in hindsight (always a wonderful thing) we underestimated the effect of the swells. Leaving at dusk, we sailed out of Pittwater and past Barrenjoey Heads into a magnificent sunset. The wind picked up to 20-30 knot southerly but the SE swells added significantly to sea conditions and it was a very “rolly” night. Chris succumbed to mal de mer and we all felt rather dodgy. When morning came conditions started to improve but Chris has decided to cross ocean racing off his list from now on!

Sunday morning saw clear skies, light winds from the west and a pod of dolphins playing under our bow for an hour or so. Arrival in Coffs Harbour in time for a beautiful sunset on Sunday.

What a delightful place is Coffs Harbour: friendly people, small enough to walk around (if you have the time and energy), good services for sailboat needs and generally a very pleasant experience. We stocked up on some extra swimmers, wetsuits and rashies, and spent the time finetuning our sailmail weather report capacities and finishing any number of jobs around the boat that will make life more pleasant as we look towards our next destination - New Caledonia. Expected departure Saturday May 13.

Setting Sail!

Finally! After spending a number of months working fulltime on preparation we left our pen at Royal Brighton Yacht Club on the evening of Sunday April 9th 2006.

Friends and family were there to wave us goodbye and wish us well and we headed out still tying down the last of the cruising gear we had brought up from Paul’s garage in Elwood the day before.

First stop was for fuel so we pulled into Sandringham Yacht Club around 1830. Oh dear – a very large motor cruiser was at the dock refuelling so we waited some time for her to finish before tying up to the fuel dock. Refuelling was slower than anticipated so there went our plans to catch the 2330 tide at Port Phillip Heads that evening.

No problems, we had a meal, a couple of hours sleep and at midnight were up once more to head off to catch the early morning tide. And then discovered a fuel leak …
So far, departure had been somewhat of an anti-climax………

Two hours later, after David and friend Duncan had solved the problem we decided to head off anyway as the weather was fairly benign. As I had a couple of extra hours sleep under my belt I did the first watch to Queenscliffe and woke the guys at dawn as we left Queenscliffe to starboard and prepared to go through the heads.

Bass Strait had been blowing a gale (storm in the east) the previous week and we had delayed our departure. Now we had smooth seas and little breeze. The passage to Gabo Island required some motor sailing but a little 35 knot blow on Tuesday evening from the south west sent us scurrying along at a rapid rate.

A slow trip up the coast against light northerlies and north easterlies (not to mention the 1-2 knot eastern current against us) was a little tedious but there were magnificent moonlit evenings to make up for it and a very special sighting of a pod of humpback whales playing at dusk just to the North of Batemans Bay. We felt very privileged to be the only boat out there to see the show as they breached, spouted and waved their flukes at us. We are not sure of the numbers but guess at least 10.

Friday evening (April 14th) saw us approaching Sydney heads and making little way into a nasty northerly chop. Rather than plow on against the chop and current we decided to head into Sydney and the Cruising Yacht Club at Rushcutters Bay overnight. What a magnificent sight to come through the heads after 5 days at sea at 2300 hours and see the lights of Sydney and the harbour. Most spectacular!

We dropped into a vacant pen at CYC and noted that at 45 feet we looked very small against the 70 foot New Zealand maxi nearby and the Volvo 60’s around us. Brindabella was just across the arm from us as well.

First light on Saturday we put Duncan ashore to catch his flight home and slipped out of the pen and through the heads to our first destination, Pittwater.

About Maajhi-Re

Maajhi-Re is a Norseman 447, designed by Robert Perry and built by the Ta Shing Shipyards in Taiwan in 1985.

Designed as a passage maker, she has done some extensive cruising, including a 3 year trip from San Francisco to New Zealand between 2001 and 2004.

We bought her in May 2005 and sailed her back across the Tasman from Whangarei in New Zealand to our home port of Melbourne, Australia, for servicing and maintenance in preparation for extended cruising.

What an experience! Stand-out memories are frantic provisioning of food, cooking utensils and other galley necessaries during a far too short week in Whangarei - a very quick onceover and some standard system preparations before departure, and then off into the Tasman with everything crossed and enormous faith in the ability of ourselves and (very experienced) crew to get us safely to Melbourne via Eden.

The Tasman threw some of it's worst at us over a 48 day period in the midst of the 12 day journey to Eden and Maajhi-Re handled it beautifully - much better than the frazzled new owners!

And so to our arrival in Melbourne at Royal Brighton Yacht Club in May 2005 and the start of a lengthy preparation time before departing for the long-term cruising life.

Our scheduled departure is the end of March 2006.